Accident Report Form
Purpose and Description: The primary purpose of these reports and the Annual Report of Accidents in
North American Mountaineering is to aid in the prevention of accidents. The person filling out the form
should be familiar with the circumstances of the accident and, therefore, either the person(s) directly
involved should complete or at least review the form. Full narratives and suggestions for future climbers
are welcomed. If any persons involved wish to remain anonymous, in the cases where no rescue was
involved, the editor will honor that request.
1. Report completed by (names and address or affiliation with accident):
Dan (team member)
Ken (team member)
Todd (victim)
2. Date of Accident: 7/17/99
3. Geographic Location: Washington, North Cascades, Cutthroat
Peak, Route: South Buttress
4. Names (or use a number) and ages of person directly involved:
1. Annette Age: 32
2. Dan Age: 34
3. Dave Age: 36
4. Ken Age: 33
5. Todd Age: 38
5. Total Number of Persons in Party or Class: 5
6. Details of the Accident:
A. [x ] Rock [ ] Snow [ ] Ice [ ] River [ ] Unknown
B. [x] Ascending [ ] Descending [ ] Unknown
C. Immediate Cause (you may check more than one):
[x] fall or slip on rock
[ ] piton pulled out
[ ] nut or chock pulled out
[ ] fall or slip on snow
[ ] failed to follow route
[ ] fall or slip on ice
[ ] faulty use of crampons
[ ] falling rock or object
[ ] lightning
[ ] exceeded abilities
[ ] skiing
[ ] exposure
[ ] ascending too fast
[ ] avalanche
[ ] equipment failure (be specific)
[ ] stranded
[ ] illness
[ ] loss of control - voluntary glissade
[ ] fall into crevasse/moat
[ ] other (be specific): __________________________________________________
[ ] unknown
D. Contributory Cause (you may check more than one):
[ ] climbing unroped
[ ] exposure
[x] exceeding abilities
[ ] failure to test holds
[ ] inadequate equipment/clothing
[ ] inadequate belay
[ ] weather
[ ] poor position
[ ] climbing alone
[ ] failed to follow directions
[x] place no or inadequate protection (poorly protected section)
[ ] illness
[ ] darkness
[ ] equipment failure (be specific): _____________________________________
[ ] nut or chock pulled out
[ ] piton pulled out
[ ] no hard hat
[ ] party separated
[ ] other (be specific): ________________________________________________
E. Type of injury (you may check more than one):
[ ] fatality
[ ] acute mountain sickness
[ ] abrasion
[ ] hypothermia
[ ] laceration
[ ] concussion
[ ] high altitude pulmonary edema (HAPE)
[ ] high altitude cerebral edema (HACE)
[ ] sprain
[ ] infection
[ ] heat exhaustion
[ ] psychological
[ ] heat stroke
[x] fracture
[ ] preexisting condition
[ ] frostbite
[ ] dislocation
[ ] unknown
[ ] other: _________________________________________________________________
7. Experience Level: [ ] none or little (1st year) [x] moderate (1-3 years) [x] experienced [ ] other
Note: Moderate experience level applies to victim, other members more experienced.
8. Narrative Description of Accident:
Five climbers, Ken, Dave, Dan, Annette, and Todd started on the South Buttress route of Cutthroat Peak at
6 a.m. under a blue sky and warm weather with the promise of a great day of climbing.
The climb started across a snow basin and up steep snow in the highest gully. The group continued up
some steep 3rd class rock to where the gully opened to a notch below the ridge at around 8:30 a.m. Dan,
Annette and Dave were ahead and roped up and climbed in boots with gear to the ridge on the right. Todd
and Ken left gear and climbed in rock shoes to the ridge from the left of the notch.
Dave led the first half of the route as a single running belay and Annette led all the way to an area referred
to as the “Tarzan leap” as a second running belay. Todd and Ken followed, climbing from fixed belays and
alternating leads. Right before Annette took off on her running belay Dan waved to Ken and Todd, who
were maybe 2 pitches behind at that time. After two more fixed pitches Dave, Annette, and Dan summated
at 12:30 p.m. They spent approximately 5 minutes on the summit due to the threatening weather that was
approaching from the Southwest and then began their descent.
Approximately three pitches below the summit, nearing a chimney pitch, Todd was leading a short traverse
followed by a steep vertical section. Todd was able to place two pieces of protection in the traverse
section. Todd recalls that the vertical section did not offer many protection placements. He stopped to
place a piece of protection at an awkward stance just below the next ledge. His left elbow/arm was
levered/frictioned in a crack, and there was only a shaky right hand hold. He was reaching with his right
hand for a piece of protection from his rack when he fell. Todd fell an estimated 25 – 30 ft, bouncing off
one ledge and ending up on his back on a larger ledge. Ken estimated that Todd was unconscious for
approximately 5 minutes before he was able to get a response. Todd was then able to crawl/scoot to Ken’s
belay station where Ken anchored him off. Ken signaled the other team members with a whistle.
Dan arrived first and found Todd draped on the ledge next to Ken on with his arms and legs hanging over
some small tree branches shaking uncontrollably. The rope still went from him to his last piece of
protection and back to Ken.
Dan did a quick medical assessment of Todd and determined that he had several fractured ribs on the right
side. His breathing was extremely labored and painful. His right arm/hand was not functioning properly,
and he complained of lower back pain. It was obvious that he had damaged his lower back. No bleeding or
head/brain injuries were apparent. Ken was able to communicate with some climbers below who promptly
went down for help. The weather started to turn really bad with hail and rain for the next 6 hours.
To get down to a larger ledge, Todd was able to slowly rappel down with assistance from the others.
Consideration of worsening weather conditions and in an effort to effect a quicker rescue, all members of
the team decided to continue rappelling down. This continued for four more rappels slowly moving down
the ridge to the notch. Annette and Ken worked together, setting up each rappel, rapping down to set up the
next one and providing Todd a belay from below. Dave and Dan then prepared Todd for the rappel and
sent him down to Ken and Annette. Dan assisted Todd and followed him down immediately leaving Dave
to rappel last and to clean the anchors and pull ropes.
By the time all members reached the notch at the top of the gullies, a helicopter had dropped off a
paramedic on the snowfield 150 feet below the ridge on the East Side. The team set up a double rope
rappel all the way to the snow. Annette and Dan rapped down and then instructed Todd to follow. Todd
was assisted across some relatively steep snow slopes to a level area where the helicopter was radioed and
returned to pick up both Todd and the paramedic.
Annette and Dan descended the southeast flank and found their way back to the cars by 8 p.m. Ken and
Dave descended the West Side (the ascent route) in order to pick up some gear left in the gully. They met
Annette, Dan and rescue personnel approximately 45 minutes later.
Todd was flown directly to Twisp, where they landed for a brief period of time to warm him up and
administer first aid. He was then flown to Central Washington Hospital in Wenatchee. Todd’s injuries
included a compressive fracture of the L1 vertebrae, two broken ribs, and an injured right arm and hand.
9. Analysis of Accident: What knowledge and techniques will help prevent future accidents?
The fact that the particular section of the route was not easily protected combined with the moderate
experience level of the victim contributed to the accident. The initial approach on this pitch was
deceptively easy.
10. Additional Comments:
The team was able to accomplish a self-rescue off the most difficult part of the route under adverse weather
conditions. This was due to a very well organized and efficient team effort by everyone involved when
things really counted. As a result, the time from accident to emergency room was significantly reduced.
Submit to: Jed Williamson: 7 River Ridge Road; Hanover, NH 03775
The American Alpine Club
710 Tenth Street - Suite 100
Golden, Colorado 80401 USA
Telephone: +1 (303) 384-0110